Corgi Guide

Proper socialization is probably the most important “training” you’ll ever do with your puppy. New puppy owners have a small chance of properly socializing their puppy, and the things a puppy experiences in such a short time will have an impact on the dog for the rest of his life!

Fortunately, socialization is not difficult and most dog owners socialize their pets without even realizing what they are doing.

Purpose of the socialization of puppies

Most people think that socialization means having fun and interacting with many other dogs, but it is not! “Proper socialization of puppies” is about getting a puppy used to new environments: sights, smells, sounds, people and situations. Socialization is very important to your dog’s health and well-being. A poorly socialized dog is a threat to others and to himself. Incomplete or inadequate socialization during the [socialization period mentioned above] may increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life, including fear, avoidance and / or aggression … Behavioral problems, not infectious diseases, are the leading cause of death in dogs under three years of age. Needless to say, it is important during the first few months of a dog’s life to ensure a comfortable life by properly socializing your puppy with the world around him.

What does proper socialization look like

When introducing your puppy to new things, you always want their experiences to be positive. This could mean using treats, praise, affection, or play to reward your puppy for calmly engaging in new things. Socialization does not always require a puppy to interact with something. For example, your puppy doesn’t need to greet or play with every stranger or dog they meet. However, she MUST behave appropriately with strangers and dogs. In many ways, socialization is also about training a puppy how he should interact with the world. When you socialize your puppy, it’s important to think about the associations you build and what behaviors will develop from them.

How to civilize a puppy

All puppies experience a critical period of socialization in the first three to four months that will form the basis of their emotional life! As your puppy moves through the stages of his life, his socialization needs change.

0-9 weeks

For the first two months of life, a puppy continues to be with its mother, learning to socialize with its siblings and learning new skills that will shape its early mental development. Proper socialization during this period is crucial for your puppy as his brain is still at its earliest and most vulnerable stage of development! That’s why most reputable breeders, vets, and almost all dog clubs around the world recommend not separating a puppy from their mother or siblings until they’re eight weeks old! This gives you enough time for your little one to develop and learn their first, most important life skills. Separating a puppy from his family by the age of 6 weeks can cause irreversible psychological damage to the dog that can last for the rest of his life. A good breeder will do their best to take advantage of this vulnerable period by socializing their puppies with all sorts of things while they are under the care of the breeder. Programs like Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) are just one of many puppy rearing techniques reputable breeders use to ensure their puppies are successful in their future homes.

9-20 weeks

You brought your puppy home and the socialization responsibilities are now yours! Unfortunately your puppy will enter his first period of fear around 10-11 weeks of age. Your puppy will start to respond as a warning, so it is extremely important that any interaction with your puppy is fun and positive. While you don’t want to overwhelm your puppy by moving too fast, try to introduce your toddler to as many people, animals, things as you can while maintaining a playful but controlled environment. When you first bring your puppy home, let him become familiar with his new surroundings and human family members before you start showing him unfamiliar places and strangers.

What to do?

Sign up for a puppy class. Signing up for a dog nursery is one of the best socialization opportunities available to new puppy owners. This gives your dog the opportunity to interact with alien dogs and people in a controlled and safe environment, and the tools and skills you learn along the way will benefit you and your dog long after the class is over. One important note: REMEMBER to consult this idea with a breeder who knows perfectly well the character and predispositions of the puppy you have become a happy owner.

Don’t punish your puppy

While your puppy is sure to be frustrating at times, make sure you ALWAYS try to use positive reinforcement techniques (praise, rewards, encouragement). A raised voice, the words “FE, NOT ALLOWED” should also be used, but in a controlled and very deliberate manner. Make sure you raise him in a very supportive, calm environment.

Don’t hang out with other dogs at dog parks

While it’s tempting to think of dog parks as a great place for dogs to play and use up excess energy, it’s often a bad place to socialize your puppy. Stranger dogs are unpredictable, completely out of control, and a bad experience at first can be traumatic for a puppy. This means that misbehaving or over-excited dogs can lead a puppy down the wrong path, cause life-long anxiety and teach him bad habits when interacting with other dogs. Unvaccinated dogs also pose a risk to your puppy. Dog parks are known to spread parasites and other infectious diseases to which a puppy of this age is very sensitive. Therefore, at least until the planned vaccinations are performed, avoid these places. Try to find less frequented places where your puppy will be able to run freely and take care of his physiological needs.

Socialization never ends

No matter how “well socialized” your dog may be, throughout his life he will inevitably come across new / different things that he has never experienced before. Hopefully during your socialization period, you have built a solid foundation so that your puppy is ready for whatever life brings him. Either way, if you have any concerns about your puppy’s upbringing and socialization, talk to the breeder and consult them.

The core of raising a healthy/happy puppy starts by feeding the right food, with the right proportions, at the right time.  Initially, feeding your puppy may seem pretty straightforward, but there’s more to mealtime than many new pet parents realize.

What should eat puppy?

First and foremost, puppies should only be fed puppy food: a diet specifically formulated for their unique nutritional needs.  Puppies are building bone, developing muscles, and growing organs at an exceptionally fast rate. Their bodies are burning a ton of energy (i.e. calories) every day. On average, a puppy requires twice as many daily calories as an adult dog of the same weight.

Along with a high-calorie requirement, puppies also have unique nutritional needs. For example, puppies require a specific amount of calcium in their diet, otherwise, they can develop metabolic bone disease or orthopedic conditions like early-onset arthritis.

This is why it is important to provide your puppy with specialized food that is both calorie-dense and nutrient-rich to ensure they are getting adequate nutrition from their food.

Do not feed your puppy with adult dog food!

Feeding a puppy adult dog food will deprive them of the essential nutrients necessary for them to grow and develop properly.  Doing so could lead to serious health problems later on in life.

Can I make puppy food at home?

Feeding puppies fresh raw materials can be very beneficial, but is labor intensive and requires specific expertise. However, as I said before, I do not recommend doing this. Puppies have a very specific set of nutritional requirements that will be very difficult to meet when preparing a puppy meal at home. Do-it-yourself for a puppy is just a recipe for disaster.

Should I change my puppy’s food?

When a puppy arrives at their new home (around 10 weeks old) they are already used to eating solid food and not using their mother’s milk. Leave them on their current diet at least for now. It will be a huge mistake to change your food immediately.

Remember that your puppy has just been separated from his current family and the only environment he has known so far. He can be scared, overwhelmed and stressed (even if he doesn’t show it on the outside). Food will be the only permanent element of his life during this adaptation period. Don’t take it back.

If you want to change your puppy’s food, I personally recommend starting this transition 8 weeks after the day he comes to live in your home. This should give your puppy enough time to acclimatize to your home and allow a stress-free transition from one food to another. I also recommend that you follow the 7-day schedule for switching to a new one.

How should I feed my puppy?

It depends on the puppy, there is no one size fits all when it comes to a puppy’s nutritional needs. Fortunately, a lot of research has been done on this topic, and there are several reliable ways to ensure your puppy has everything he needs.

First, there’s a common misconception that a puppy needs to be fed more when it’s bigger. This is simply not true.

“To promote normal growth, most puppies require the same amount of calories from around 4 to 12 months of age. Even though they get bigger, they use fewer calories to grow with age. ”

How much food will your puppy get each day?

The ideal serving size for your puppy depends on his metabolism, activity level and body composition. Once your breeder has given you a starting point for your puppy’s daily amount of food, you’ll likely need to make some minor adjustments. This will be due to different living conditions in your home, e.g. the puppy will be alone without his brothers and sisters, so he will probably spend more time sleeping, your house may be, for example, warmer than the breeder’s house, etc. This will make you had to increase or decrease the amount of feed given in one day. The most important thing during this period is constant monitoring of the puppy’s condition. At the time of the meeting, the breeder will certainly explain to you what the optimal condition should be.

How often should I feed my puppy?

2 months – 3 months: the first months of the puppy are fast growing. To support rapid growth, your puppy will need to eat regularly. Dietary restrictions at this age may cause irregular growth and may have future consequences. At this age, puppies should be fed at least 3 times a day.

4 months – 6 months: we still keep giving 3 meals a day unless the puppy has a less appetite or in summer when the temperatures are high. Then we can reduce the frequency to d2 meals a day. Feeding your puppies frequently makes it easier for them to digest the food and helps them maintain a constant energy level throughout the day.

The most important thing to do at this stage is to carefully monitor your puppy’s body condition. Dogs at this age can easily (and quickly) become overweight if overfed.

6 months -12 months: at 6 months of age, you can switch to 2 meals a day. At this point, the dog’s body has matured enough for its metabolism to be based on two feedings.

If you choose to feed your dog twice a day, make sure there is no more than 12 hours of rest between breakfast and dinner.

When should I stop giving puppy food to your corgi?

Once your puppy reaches physical maturity, they will no longer need puppy food that is high in energy and high in macro and micronutrients. This happens at different times depending on the breed of dog. In the case of Corgi, this usually happens around the age of one year.

So what’s next? “What should I feed my dog ​​now?”

First of all, don’t keep your dog on puppy food. As you already know, puppy food is extremely high in calories and nutrients. This can lead to severe overfeeding, obesity, and can cause other health problems in the long term in an adult dog. When switching from puppy food to adult dog food, I recommend sticking to the same brand. This will generally make the dog’s transition easier. Always SLOWLY get your dog used to the new food. First as a treat and then mixing it more and more with the current food.

In the end

The journey from puppyhood to adulthood is fun, exciting, but also crucial to your dog’s future development. One of the most important factors in your puppy’s development is what they eat and the way you feed them.

Puppies should ALWAYS be fed puppy food or professionally prepared homemade food.

After our young welsh corgi pembroke is 6 months old, and in fact when our puppy changes his teeth, we can try to introduce natural, fresh products, first as a treat and then as part of the basic diet. It can be fresh meat, white cheese, boiled vegetables.

After they reach adulthood, they should receive food for adult dogs or special food depending on their needs resulting from the lifestyle, e.g. dogs working in agility or dogs working as shepherds should receive food with an increased energy content.

I wish you Bon appetit 🙂

I am very lucky to have happy, healthy Corgi and my goal is to keep that way for many years. When I first started researching supplement brands, I was shocked at the amount of dog joint supplements on the market. The more I learned about the occurrence of joint problems in dogs, the more I realized how lucrative the market was for joint supplement manufacturers. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of brands of pet supplements. Unfortunately, not all are created equal – so it’s extremely important to do your research and find the right brand of supplement for your dog’s individual needs.

Is supplementation for the dog’s joints necessary? Each breed of dog has natural weaknesses. In the case of corgi, it’s their joints and back. Due to their stunted build and long backs, they are very susceptible to skeletal damage and chronic mobility problems that develop later in life. However, corgi aren’t the only breed to have joint problems. It is estimated that 20% of all dogs (regardless of age) suffer from osteoarthritis (OA), making it the most common chronic disease dogs face. Osteoarthritis is a complex condition that involves inflammation and degeneration of one or more joints.

What causes arthritis in dogs? Some of the factors leading to osteoarthritis include:

A) Physique – Your dog’s physique is directly related to their risk of developing OA. Dogs with short legs and long backs are typically more at risk compared to others.

B) Body weight – obesity is strongly correlated with the development of OA because being overweight puts extra strain on the joints, ligaments and muscles.

C) Abnormal joint development – Some dogs suffer from abnormal joint development which makes them more susceptible to OA. These conditions are often seen as canine hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, or patellar dislocation.

D) Excessive physical activity (running with a bike, standing on the hind legs, running up stairs and on a slippery surface) – causes excessive wear of the joints and is correlated with OA.

E) Joint and muscle injuries are also very common causes of OA.

It should also be noted that “aging” is NOT a cause of OA, but supplementation in young or old animals is most appropriate.

What ingredients should be in supplements for a dog’s joints?

There are many products on the market, so determining which product is right for your dog can be very difficult. The best place to start is by reading the list of active ingredients. A well-balanced preparation for hips and joints should contain the following 5 active ingredients:

Collagen makes up 70-90% of a dog’s ligaments, muscles and tendons. When your body’s collagen levels are depleted, you are more likely to develop injuries such as hip dysplasia and broken cruciate ligaments. Adding collagen to your dog’s diet can help improve and maintain the integrity of their joints even before they start to deteriorate.

Glucosamine helps keep the cartilage in your joints healthy and can also repair damaged cartilage. This is very beneficial for active dogs that damage cartilage during sports or intense activities.

Chondroitin protects your dog’s joints from enzymes that can break down the cartilage. Chondroitin is commonly found in supplements that also contain glucosamine because they work best together.

Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is a proven painkiller and anti-inflammatory agent for joints. It is known to be a powerful antioxidant that helps regulate the body’s normal inflammatory response.

Curcumin (turmeric) is a powerful natural herb that supports a healthy inflammatory response and additionally helps the body repair damaged ligaments, muscles, tendons and joints.

Now that you know what key active ingredients your supplement should contain, it’s time to go a little deeper. It is obligatory to read the label, if the preparation does not contain the basic ingredients mentioned earlier, look for another! Compare the content of active substances in the available preparations. Remember that the ingredient with the most is listed at the top of the list. See the use-by date. To minimize the presence of unnecessary inactive ingredients, choose powder supplements.

FINALLY – Dogs naturally expose their bodies to heavy wear. Often their favorite activities, such as jogging or retrieving games, can put strain on muscles and joints. This can eventually lead to joint pain, osteoarthritis, and even problems with movement. It is important to start supporting your dog early enough by providing him with all the nutrients his body needs to stay healthy. Supplements are full of these important ingredients, but it’s extremely important to know what you’re feeding your dog. Don’t trust a supplement based solely on cute packaging or clever marketing. Take the time to thoroughly research all the active and inactive substances of the product under consideration and make the most informed decision possible. Your dog will be grateful to you!

If you have fallen in love with corgis, then you have probably stumbled across a fluffy corgi at some point.

What is a Fluffy Corgi?

“Fluffy” is the name of a corgi, Cardigan or Pembroke with a long coat. The specific gene that causes fluffiness in corgi is called the “fluffy gene” and is the result of a recessive genetic mutation in the coat.
This mutation, apart from long hair, does not cause any diseases. It’s just that dogs have longer hair. In fact, apart from the difference in coat length, fluffy corgi and standard corgi are basically the same dog and can even be born into the same litter.

Unfortunately, fluffy hair is considered a beauty defect in the breed standard and therefore fluffies cannot participate in shows and cannot be reproduced. Since they’re not bred on purpose, they can be extremely hard to come by.

Fluffy and genetics Fluffs are the result of a hidden (recessive) mutation in the coat that is unconsciously passed on to offspring.
The fluffy coat type appears in the offspring only when both parents carry the recessive fluffy gene and pass it on.
A puppy will need to get both of its parents’ fluffy genes to be fluffy. If they get only one of the two, they will carry the fluffy gene, but will never develop a fluffy coat. Until dog coat genes have been specifically studied, it cannot be determined whether they carry the fluffy gene.

How it’s working?
The Punnett square below shows how these genes are passed on to offspring. Each parent has two coat genes and passes one of these genes to their puppies. Puppies will get the gene from each parent (one from mom and one from dad). The dominant gene will determine the type of coat. If a puppy gets 2 recessive coat genes, it will show a recessive coat type.

In the chart above, we can see two standard coat dogs carrying the fluffy recessive gene (Sf) bred together are expected to produce: Standard Coat non-carriers (SS) 25% of the time Standard Coat fluffy carriers (Sf) 50% of the time Fluffy Coat/fluffy carriers (ff) 25% of the time

For this reason, a single litter from two standard coated parents can produce standard coated non-carriers, standard coated carriers, and fluffy coated puppies.

Is it unethical to breed or buy a Corgi Fluffy?
To begin with, I would like to point out that fur is not a health problem. This is nothing but a type of coat that does not allow the dog to participate in shows.
The breed standard for corgi hair says: “short to medium length, with a hard structure. Resistant to weather conditions, with a good undercoat. Ideally straight. With this in mind, fluffers are not within the breed standard but it doesn’t really have a significant impact on their performance.

Is my Corgi Corgi fluffy?
When puppies are born, it can be difficult to distinguish between fluffy and standard puppies.
Significant hair differences appear several weeks after birth. At 8 weeks of age, it’s usually very clear if a puppy has fluffy hair, especially when standing next to their standard hairy littermates.
This was a short explanation covering the basics of genetics and the knowledge of fluffy dogs in the Kennel Club. Remember, however, that apart from the hair length of the corgi fluffy, they are no different from the normal hair length. Which is prettier – tastes are not discussed 🙂

Some generally available information on how to protect our dog from New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Eve supplemented with our practical observations!

Loud music, singing, screams, fireworks = good fun? Not for your corgi. As a responsible owner, you should take care of the comfort and well-being of your four-legged charges on this difficult day for them.

While we are having a great time, our corgi experience severe anxiety, even fear, caused by too much auditory and visual stimuli.

A few tips on how to survive this evening …

HOW TO BE DONE BEFORE NEW YEAR’S EVE?

Try to get your dog used to loud noises – this should be done in stages, e.g. by playing recorded sounds of a storm or fireworks – initially quietly and gradually getting louder

You can prepare a second lair in a quiet, safe place, where the corgi will be able to stay in silence – a room without windows, such as a hall or bathroom, would be ideal. If you plan to leave the house on New Year’s Eve, you should take care of your pet in advance. It is important that the person who is to care for the dog while you are away is not a complete stranger. Make sure your dog spends some time with her beforehand and fully accepts her

If your Welsh Corgi tolerates the New Year’s Eve noise exceptionally badly, reach for special sedatives, available only from veterinarians. They will help your pet calm down and relax. When choosing such a solution, take care of the right preparation in advance, as some of them must be administered for several days to get the right effect, especially if they are of natural origin.

What to do on New Years Eve?

Plan your last walk well before midnight. Choose a quiet and peaceful place where there is little likelihood of hearing shots,

Don’t let your dog loose around New Year’s Eve, even if you think your Welsh Corgi isn’t afraid of gunshots

If your pembroke is afraid and doesn’t want to go outside – don’t make him go for walks

Prepare the house / flat in advance to minimize the penetration of external stimuli: when it gets dark, cover the windows and turn on the lights – then the flashes of fireworks will not be so visible. Turn on the radio / TV quite loud to reduce the audibility of outside noise

If your corgi spends a lot of time outdoors, gardening on that day, don’t leave them alone. It will be safer to spend this time at home.

It may happen that a scared Welsh Corgi destroys something in the house – it should not be punished for it. This behavior usually occurs as a result of the dog’s negative emotions being released and screaming will only increase his fear

If pembroke feels safe in a room – let him stay there, even if you think the place is strange or inappropriate

A big mistake repeated by many owners is “calming” animals in a human way. Petting, picking up or cuddling corgi will only confirm that something is wrong and you should be afraid of it. If possible, try not to pay attention to the dog’s behavior (as long as nothing is happening to its safety), and you should behave like on any other day – this way you will let him know that nothing big is happening

Try to distract  corgi with their favorite delicacies or teethers – prepare them well in advance.

Finally, we encourage you to celebrate the arrival of the New Year without fireworks and excessive noise, because what is fun for people is often a real nightmare for our Welsh Corgi.

Some interesting tips found on the internet 🙂

Winter is coming. Missed by some, hated by others the coldest time of the year is a hard test for our body, but also for our dog’s body.

Low temperatures, blowing wind or increased levels of humidity are ideal working conditions for bacteria and viruses that are waiting for a gap in our immune system. The turn of autumn and winter is a period when the risk of catching a cold, angina, flu or various types of inflammation increases dramatically. The problem mainly affects children, whose organisms are not yet strong enough to defend themselves against pathogens, but adults are often broken down by disease. In dogs, the most common at this time is kennel-tiring, dry cough leading to inflammation of the trachea and bronchi. It is caused by type 2 adenovirus, parainfluenza virus and whooping cough bacteria. A pet becomes infected with it via droplets through contact with a sick dog. The disease manifests itself as weakness and high fever, severe dry cough with gag reflex, enlargement of tonsils and lymph nodes, and runny nose. Diarrhea may also occur. If left untreated, it leads to complications in the form of chronic bronchitis. The most effective preventive measure is the kennel cough vaccine. If the vaccinated dog becomes ill, the infection will be milder and easier to deal with.
How do you increase your chances of getting through a sea of ​​dry foot infection? Better to prevent than to cure. Below we present a decalogue of behaviors that will help you avoid illness. Do not delay their implementation until the first calendar day of winter, especially since most of them are simple methods that do not require a lot of free time. Take advantage of our advice and invest in your health today.

Diet
You are what you eat. The truth is as old as the world in winter returns with redoubled strength. A balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals is the foundation on which your immunity is built before winter. Especially in times of increased morbidity, it is important to provide the body with the necessary ingredients. Choose unprocessed products and, if possible, free of preservatives and dyes. Remember about the balanced proportions of macronutrients: protein, fats (preferably of plant origin) and carbohydrates – all of them are necessary for the proper functioning of the system called human. In addition to the quality of meals, regularity is also important. Eat smaller portions at a constant frequency and do not skip any meals. In particular, don’t forget about breakfast, which is the first domino in the puzzle of a good day.
When it comes to our dog, it is enough to stock up on a decent quality food that contains, in addition to protein, fat and carbohydrates, the following ingredients:
Vitamin C – in the form of a supplement or natural, e.g. rosehips, acerola.
Brewer’s yeast – as long as it is not present in the pet’s food or is in a small amount. It is a natural complex of easily digestible protein, B vitamins and rare microelements. Yeast also has a probiotic effect, supporting digestion and immune processes in the intestines.
Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids – the best source of these is fish oil. They are also found in freshly pressed linseed oil, linseed, sunflower seeds, pumpkin and nuts.
Beta-1,3 / 1,6-glucan-stimulates the immune system by increasing the activity of macrophages that destroy germs.
Flavonoids and carotenoids are compounds found in plants. They prevent aging, support the production and activity of lymphocytes, and inhibit the multiplication of viruses. It is worth giving the dog, for example, raw carrots, beets or blueberries.
Probiotics – healthy intestines, in which digestion and absorption processes take place properly, and healthy bacterial flora determine the immunity to the greatest extent.

Sleep and relaxation
Regeneration is an important element in the life cycle of each of us. Even if in today’s busy world we marginalize its importance, it is one of the main factors influencing the quality of our lives. Sleep is a process of charging internal batteries. When our body informs us of weakening batteries, our resistance to prowling pathogens also drops. Winter is the perfect time to take it easy, as nature did. Indulge yourself, give your body an additional 30-60 minutes. sleep, take time to relax. Do you think it’s a waste of valuable time? Nothing could be more wrong! This is an investment that will allow you to avoid having to put aside the daily challenges of L4 and your resilience will increase before winter.
Our adult dog does not need to take care of an additional dose of sleep, because during our absence, it can take a nap after a nap. The issue becomes relevant when talking about older dogs and puppies. We should give them enough time without classes, walks and training so that they can rest peacefully and recharge their batteries while sleeping.

Physical activity
Sleep and relaxation are extremely important. This does not mean, however, that you should spend all your free time passively in an armchair in front of the TV or computer. You should find a place for traffic in your schedule. You know best which activity is right for you. Swimming pool, yoga, fitness, jogging, or maybe just a walk or evening gymnastics? Choose what suits you best and what you feel good about. Remember to choose the intensity and length of training depending on your condition and health. Not all of us have to become an Olympian right away!
It’s the same with dogs. As we all know we have about 400 breeds registered with the FCI. Dogs vary in size, weight, character, and suitability for sports and work. For this reason, it is necessary to provide them with the right amount of exercise in the fresh air, paying attention to the preferences of the breed that our pet is. Anyway, exercise in the fresh air is just like in humans an effect of increasing immunity and supporting the general condition of the body.

Vitamin C and immunity before winter
Vitamins are the fuel of our immune system. Vitamin C plays a particularly important role here, as it is a highly qualified guardian of immunity. Fall and winter are the seasons in which you should especially take care of its supply. It is not an overly difficult challenge, as vitamin C can be found in many products: lemon, citrus, parsley, pepper, sauerkraut, viburnum, elderberry and tomatoes. For those looking for more direct solutions, we offer prophylactic vitamin supplementation in the form of lozenges, effervescent tablets, and chewing gums. You can give your children vitamin C in the form of drops.
In dogs, we do not have to worry about vitamin C supplementation because it is synthesized in the body of the vast majority of dogs (except Dalmatians) under the influence of light.

Purge
Vitamin C alone may not be enough, so it’s worth considering additional natural supplements. One of the most popular solutions in recent months is the purges. Herb has many advantages in its deck, the most important of which is the strengthening of immunity. Cistus has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antifungal properties. It inhibits the secretion of histamine and is a rich source of polyphenols, thanks to which it naturally strengthens the immune system. Regular drinking of a purge infusion is an excellent form of prevention, not only during the coldest months of the year.

Drink plenty of warm drinks
Consuming a lot of infusions will also be helpful in maintaining a high level of immunity before winter and during the coldest months of the year. Various types of herbal and fruit infusions are perfect for this role. First of all, you can take advantage of the properties of elderberry, lime, chokeberry, rosehip, raspberry, blackcurrant, quince and cranberry. Depending on your preferences, you can diversify their taste with fruit syrups. Drinking infusions will provide the body with the necessary vitamins and will ensure the proper level of hydration.
In dogs, especially those living in apartments, constant access to fresh, cool, clean (of course) water is important. Why? Apartments usually have dry air from central heating or air conditioning systems. In addition, we – humans have got used to a high “comfortable” temperature, which is not so comfortable for pets.

Winter hardiness thanks to honey and ginger
Drinks in the period of an increased risk of catching infection should be strengthened with two ingredients, which may not make you invulnerable to viruses and bacteria at once, but will increase your immunity in the long run. It’s all about natural honey and ginger. Honey dissolved in chilled water is a mine of nutritional value and easily digestible carbohydrates. It has anti-inflammatory properties, protects the throat and strengthens immunity. In contrast, ginger lowers blood sugar, has anti-inflammatory and analgesic properties, and regulates digestion. It can be taken in the form of tablets or chopped root added to warming tea.
Neither honey nor ginger is recommended for dogs, but consider taking a small amount of garlic twice a week: it works on the immune system, has antibacterial properties and is hated by parasites.

Take care of the air quality at home
Since we mentioned the right level of hydration, it is worth adding that the humidification of the air in the rooms where we stay is also important. Too dry air, which is easy to access, especially during the heating season, can damage the throat mucosa, which is particularly vulnerable to children. Therefore, we recommend that all mothers take care of the proper level of air humidity in the child’s room. This can be done by hanging a wet towel or humidifier on the radiator. We should also remember that the rooms in which we are staying should be regularly aired, even when the temperature outside the window is below zero.
At this point it must be said: nothing more, nothing less. Everything we do for ourselves will surely be beneficial for our dog.

Wear warm clothes
Finally, something that sounds like a truism is invariably relevant and surprisingly often marginalized, thus negatively affecting winter immunity. You can also protect yourself from viruses and bacteria from the outside. An insulating layer in the form of warm clothes, a scarf, a hat, gloves and solid shoes is a must-have in the autumn shopping catalog. Without them, protection against viruses and bacteria will be extremely difficult. If an item of clothing is not in your wardrobe, the last moments are ahead of you to fill these gaps. Wear on the layers so that you can easily react to sudden changes in temperature, e.g. by entering a room or bus. Fight against moisture by drying your shoes and clothes every time you come home or work.
Corgi do not require special winter clothing due to the fact that their coat has two layers: an undercoat and a topcoat. Therefore, they are not afraid of rain and frost. Before winter, however, let’s remember about other security features of our four-legged friend, but it was mentioned in the previous article.

Phew, it has accumulated a bit, but as you can see it is not that difficult to take care of your and your dog’s immunity.
Good luck !!!

Some interesting tips found on the internet 🙂

Winter is a very difficult period for us and our four-legged friends. How exactly should we prepare our Welsh Corgi for this period?
Below we will try to suggest how to help our pets. Proper preparation and protection will avoid many problems.

Clothes – only fashionable or really needed!
Primitive breeds such as Siberian husky, Alaskan malamute, Samoyed and others are prepared by nature for such conditions. They have thick fur that perfectly protects them against harsh weather conditions. Most often, clothes are needed by short-haired dogs, which do not have a profuse undercoat or are completely deprived of it, which means that they are exposed to heat loss from the body. The most common sign of a dog freezing cold is shivering from the cold. In such cases, we should equip the dog with a warm outfit for long walks. Medium-haired dogs with an undercoat, such as the Pembroke Welsh Corgi, despite their denser fur, also do not always do well in cold weather. However, we don’t have to buy them clothes – they can do without it, it’s corgi after all.

Salt – a big problem !
The salt on the road, sidewalk, park alley is a threat to corg’s paws. Just as salt eats into our shoes, it attacks dogs’ paws, causing painful cracks. In addition to salt, ice can be a problem, clumping into balls between the toes of the dog’s paw. That is why it is worth paying attention to whether the dog does not limp during the winter walk, and from time to time check that it is clean between its toes.
There are several ways to survive the winter time with our corgis without any problems: you can buy special shoes that will not allow salt and snow to damage your dog’s paws. In case of
unaccustomed, adult dogs, however, it may be problematic to put on shoes – an unaccustomed pet, instead of enjoying going for a walk, will devote all its energy to trying to take off the shoes. Therefore, if you plan to protect the paws in this way, it is best to get the dog shoes when the dog is still young and start short attempts to put them on as early as possible. As a result, when winter arrives, the dog will be accustomed to shoes and will be able to put them on easily.
Another solution is to use foot creams. They can contain petroleum jelly, paraffin oil, wax, propolis. These substances perform a protective and caring function.

Winter hair – natural clothing!
Just like the skin of humans, fur is a natural barrier in dogs and it is it that we must pay the most attention to.
We use shampoos and conditioners with a high content of oily substances, such as lanolin or e.g. coconut oil. Well-oiled, nourished hair will be much less prone to snow or ice sticking to it. We should pay attention especially to places particularly exposed to this type of ailments (hair on the paws, which we can cut as much as possible, and curtains under the belly) – that’s where we apply the most oiling preparations.

We’re going outside right now:
First of all, before going for a walk, do not “overheat” the dog by, for example, active play at home. The best solution is to gradually reduce the dog’s body temperature, for example by opening windows in the room where the pet is or letting the dog in just before walking into a room with a lower temperature, such as a garage or vestibule. Similarly to a human, disease complications may occur when the body is warmed up when the body is warmed up.
We keep our fingers crossed and it will probably only snow in the mountains 🙂

Another interesting article from the Provet clinic, this time about dealing with a dog in hot weather. The text applies to all breeds, but because welsh corgi pembroke travel everywhere with their owners, it is dedicated to this breed in particular.

Summer is in full swing, the sun is hot. We wait for it all year round, but dogs often avoid sunny places. Unlike humans, they don’t have such advanced adaptation mechanisms to high temperatures. They mainly get rid of excess heat through panting. However, at the height of summer, this mechanism may prove ineffective, and the result may be tragic.

DO YOU KNOW HOW TO PROTECT YOUR DOG AGAINST THE HEAT?

There are many factors that affect the body’s ability to effectively transfer heat and a dog’s susceptibility to heat:

1. dehydration

2. young age (especially under 6 months of age)

3. overweight

4. old age

5. sick animal (especially during treatment, in the perioperative period, with cardiovascular diseases)

6. short-skulled dogs

Regardless of whether your pet belongs to any of the above groups, you should know the rules of properly protecting your dog against overheating.

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR DOG FROM THE HEAT?

1. Never leave your dog in the car – the car cabin heats up to very high temperatures in a short time when it is hot. Regardless of the tilted window, the air supply or the water bowl, the interior of the car can turn out to be a death trap. Avoid taking your dog for a ride in the car, especially if the situation requires you to leave it in the car. Remember that according to the current regulations, in order to protect the animal’s life and health, a person who comes across a dog locked in a car may break the glass and get the animal out of the inside with impunity.

2. Access to water – both at home and on a walk, always provide your dog with fresh, clean water. Outside, it’s best to have a bottle and bowl handy. At home, we make sure that the water is changed several times a day.

3. Avoid walking in hot weather – the length and intensity of the walk should be adjusted to the prevailing temperature. In summer, longer walks are only recommended in the early morning or evening hours. When the sun is full, it should be brought out briefly, only for the needs of the animal.

4. Avoid concrete and asphalt – first place your hand on the surface, then take your pet out there. In summer, artificial surfaces heat up to very high temperatures, which may cause burns to the dog’s pads. It is definitely a better idea to avoid such places and walk on the lawn or in the forest.

5. Keep your dog cool – providing shade, soaking the fur with water, digging a hole in the garden. Avoid applying wet fabrics to the animal’s body.

6. Avoid muzzles – especially those that keep the dog from panting.

7. Take care of the coat – Proper brushing of the coat can help keep your dog at the correct body temperature. Remember to visit the dog’s hairdresser!

We found another very interesting articles, this time about ticks, on the PROVET Clinic and Pedigree website. We encourage you to read:

“Ticks are tiny arachnids – parasites that feed on the blood of animals and humans. They are most abundant in meadows and forests, although they can also be found in the park or on the lawn in front of the apartment block. Tick bites are dangerous as they transmit several serious diseases. Babesiosis is most dangerous for dogs. Ticks feed from spring to autumn, and in winter they do not die, but remain in hibernation. They can survive for a long time without food. Clinging to the underside of the leaves of grasses, trees and shrubs, they wait weeks and sometimes even months for their prey. Once they attack, they are hard to spot in the thick dog fur, being only a few millimeters long. How do you spot a tick in a dog? During the daily brushing of the hair, it is worth checking if an unwanted guest is sometimes caught in the skin of your pet.

How to fight against ticks?

There are no ways to protect our pets 100%. However, prophylaxis turns out to be the most effective, often with the use of two different preparations.

Preparations:

1. anti-tick collar – usually gives protection for about 8 months. It is not recommended for use in animals with dense hair due to the need to contact the collar with the skin.

2. tablet – the newest and potentially most effective method. The period of operation varies, depending on the manufacturer, from one month to even 3. It can be used simultaneously with other preparations.

3. spot-on – the most popular method. The full effectiveness of the preparation is achieved only with adequate time without contact with water or rain. The duration of action varies, ranging from 2 to 8 weeks.

If we notice a tick bitten into the skin of our pet, it should be skillfully removed. The tick removal procedure is performed by pulling out or twisting the ticks firmly. Grasp the tick as close to the skin as possible using tweezers or a special tool for removing them. In the absence of experience, we recommend consulting a veterinarian, because leaving a tick fragment in the skin increases the risk of tick-borne diseases, and also contributes to an inflammatory reaction at the bite site. If you don’t feel up to it, sign up for a tick removal treatment.

Better to prevent than to cure! Treatment of tick-borne diseases can be several times more expensive than prophylaxis, and also turn out to be ineffective! “

On the website of Krytyka Kulinarna Ms. Magda Grzebyk, we found a very interesting article. It is not written by the breeder, and that’s good. It lacks bulging and information unnecessary for anyone. You can see that it is written by a practitioner, i.e. a person who really travels with dogs authentically and not just tells about it. We read this text with great care and found in it a lot of things that we do ourselves traveling with our corgi, both adults and puppies. We encourage you to read:

How to travel with a dog and not go crazy? 10 good tips!

We have been traveling with dogs or dogs for years. Wherever we are able to get by car – they also arrive. First I traveled alone, only with Saba. Later I met Jacek and there were three of us. After another two years, Pola joined, probably the sweetest golden retriever in this part of Europe. The configuration changed when Saba ran out six years later – we were the three of us again. Last fall, a Pretzel joined us. The pretzel is a mini Saba. And again we have a set in the car.

By definition, we do not take animals to the plane, because we have no heart to give them the stress of traveling in the baggage hold. But Europe is theirs. Our dogs swam in the Baltic, the English Channel, the Atlantic Ocean, the North Sea, the Black, Aegean, Mediterranean or Adriatic, rode the cable car in the Italian Alps and made skiers drink bombardino, sailed and had fun to the rhythm of shanties. And they were never a problem but a source of joy for us and the environment.

Maybe we are very lucky, or rather we are always well prepared for travel? Maybe we don’t impose their presence on others and we only enter where we are welcome? We don’t go with them to museums, we just enter them one by one, so that someone can always stay with the dogs outside.

It is worth checking in advance which National Parks you can enter with your dog, and if you can’t, how much is the ticket. For example, in the Bieszczady, you cannot go to the BPN, but the ticket is cheap, so if I meet a guard, I approach him and politely say: “Good morning, please, please.” He writes it out to me and we travel in peace. To this with a smile.

Pubs? Zero problem. It is only in Poland that we twist our nose. Everywhere in the world we were able to find either a restaurant with a garden, or a secluded place inside, where dogs did not bother anyone.

Accommodation? Zero problem. It is only in Poland that we twist our nose. Five-star hotels? You’re welcome! Apartments? You’re welcome! Probably a big merit in this buttered Polish eyes, which cannot be denied, but equally large ours. All the work we did with our dogs to make them criminal, obedient and not pull the dermis out of their seats. It’s just like with kids in restaurants – well-behaved they do not hurt anyone, but completely dissolved you want to pour on your bare ass. And just as I do not like dissolved children, I do not support traveling with an aggressive or untrained dog.

Here are ten points to uncheck so you can remember your vacation with your dog well. And the dog maybe even better.

1. Raise your dog

In fact, preparations begin at the puppy age. If you devote a lot of attention to your dog during the first year, work with him, then for the next 12 years you will not have to be ashamed of him. Instead of teaching him stupid tricks, teach him how to reference, stop, stop or down.

“To my feet” will come in handy when your cute pet wants to say hello to this baby here and his mummy gets into hysteria because her cousin once bit a dachshund. It is better not to provoke and just call the dog. “Lay down” and “stay” will be useful in a restaurant so that your sweetie lies under the table and does not put – even the sweetest – muzzle other guests in plates. When all this is able and politely walks by the leg, then there is time for stupid fools like “roll, everyone will have a back”.

And take him not only to the forest, but also to the city. Let him get used to a massive stimulus attack. Thanks to this, the new surroundings will not surprise him and he will accept any changes in landscape with stoic calmness.

2. Vaccinations

It’s your dog’s duty to watch over them. Remember that rabies vaccination only takes effect after three weeks, so you must vaccinate your dog well in advance of your planned departure date.

3. Chip and passport

A one-off action costs just over PLN 100. Once a passport is issued, it is always assigned to the dog. As a rule, at the borders no one asks about him, but you always have to have with you.

The chip is theoretically a great thing to identify a dog if he decides to go on an independent trip. BUT. First of all, someone who finds out that the dog can be chipped must find it. Secondly, he must find a vet who has a reader, which is not so obvious. And thirdly – the data must be entered into the international Safe Animal database. The vet has no such obligation, so do it yourself. In addition, when you create an account, you will be able to change data, e.g. when you change your phone number or home address.

4. Address card

Analog version of the chip. Always, always the dog should have it attached to the collar. I do not recommend screwed sleeves with paper inside. It is much more reasonable to order an address in the form of a piece of metal with embossed data. Remember to provide the telephone number with the area code to Poland, i.e. in the format +48 xxx xxx xxx.

5. Protection against ticks and fleas

Our dogs in warm places never caught anything. They bring the most ticks from our own garden and I have such observations that they are no longer called anything. These ticks. But it’s worth trying. And remember that if you use a spot-on agent, for the next three days after instillation, the dog should not enter the water. In turn, the collar should be removed before bathing. Even those described as “waterproof” are not quite that at all. The rain won’t hurt them, but the salt water will.

6. Braces for the car or transporter

Depending on how your dog is used to it. Our dogs travel in the back seat, but if your dog feels safer in the transporter, then remember to leave enough space for him in the trunk, and put his home den inside. It will feel even safer with familiar fragrances.

7. Bowl and water

It’s something you can’t forget. Silicone folding bowls are a nice solution. They take up very little space, so they are easy to throw even into a backpack. Remember to supply fresh water.

8. Break every 3-4 hours

Roughly so often we stop to dry dogs, give them water and let their legs stretch out. They don’t complain and the rest of the way sleeps well. Sometimes I feel a little jealous of them.

9. Own food

I know from experience that it will be better if you take the right supply. If your dog eats specialized food, it is not at all discussed. Ours eat completely normal food, but rather from the shelf of ham, not pate. Once, we took too little to Greece, so I bought a small pack of some well-known P letter food in the supermarket. The second part of the name was also P. After three days, the Polish woman began to bald around the stomach. It ended up in a bare pie that overgrown for another month. It had to be delicious food and extremely healthy. Take your own. Always.

10. Leash and muzzle

Even if you have the best-placed dog in the world and communicate with a complex system of looks and grunts – there will always be a situation where a leash will be indispensable. Either they won’t let you into the restaurant without her or that mommy dachshund. In general, always have a leash. Muzzle too. Of course, if you have a totally peaceful dog, it’s likely that the muzzle will never be useful. But let’s assume that this dachshund mommy is going to make a rabbi. And then what? You won’t tie his mouth with a string.

So prepared, you have nothing to fear. Traveling with a dog is fun, good and glorious, so do not regret it!

If you are a dog owner, you’ve probably wondered more often about the issue of taking them for a walk. A dog is an animal that likes everything and needs to run and enjoy some freedom. A happy pet is a runaway pet. How do you reconcile it with the crowded city streets? Do our four-legged friends have to walk around the city on a leash and muzzle?

Are there laws that tell owners how to walk a dog?

Yes and no. General guidelines can be found in the Animal Protection Act, art. 10a of the Act says that it is forbidden to let dogs go without being able to control them and without any marking enabling identification of the owner or guardian.

Similar, but wider, because they apply to all pets, we can find in the Code of Petty Offenses, art. 77 says: whoever does not observe the usual or prescribed precautions when holding an animal, shall be subject to a fine of up to PLN 250 or a reprimand. As you can easily see, none of the laws categorically indicates that the dog should be on a leash. The condition is common sense, appropriate labeling and controllability by the owner.

Doesn’t the dog need a leash then?

The answer to this question can really be found in the local laws. It is the individual municipalities that determine the rights and obligations that are imposed on the owners of four-legged residents. Each commune in Poland should have regulations that determine how our pet can move around it during a walk.

Walking the dog and the law

For example, the city of Warsaw stipulates in the regulations that in areas intended for shared use, dogs should be walked on a leash, and animals that are aggressive or may pose a threat to the environment, also in muzzles and under the care of people who will ensure control over them. In 2018, the City Council clarified the provisions enabling the dog to be released from a leash, thus replacing a vague statement in places less frequented. Currently, dogs can run freely if they are marked and under the strict control of the owner or guardian. The guardian should, however, pay attention to the safety of other people, animals and road users.

More stringent regulations in this respect are in force in Krakow and Wroclaw. There, dogs should be walked on a leash in places intended for public use, and additionally in a muzzle if they belong to an aggressive breed, or are aggressive. Freely dogs can run only in fenced areas of dog paddocks and less frequented by people, but only in the muzzle and under the supervision of a guardian.

As you can see above, the issue of walking dogs is individual for each place. Before traveling with a four-legged friend, you should pay special attention to how local law addresses this issue. When we leave the city and feel the call of freedom, we often want the same call to be shared by our pet. Fortunately, there are many places outside the crowded streets of Polish cities where it is possible.

If you are properly prepared for the arrival of the puppy at your home, you help toddler to easily acclimatize. Then this situation will be pleasant and unforgettable for you.

Home first: plants that have so far stood on the floor, try to move to a dresser or window sill. Store the cleaning products in the bathroom hide in the cupboards. Secure outlets, cables and extension cords. Remember to secure access to stairs and balconies. These are very dangerous places. Look the very small metal or plastic objects that your puppy can swallow. Remove them from the floor and all available places for the puppy. Kitchen: a puppy should not have access to “human food” and in particular chocolate, coffee, sweets, which after eating can be very dangerous for him.

Garden in front of the house: the basic thing is to protect the fence. All holes and gaps in the fence must be small enough so that the puppy cannot squeeze through them when left unattended. Pay attention to plants that have spines. Secure them with a plastic gardening net. If there is a pond in the garden, it’s best to fence them with a plastic net until the puppy grows up.

Shopping: you can buy a medium-sized bed, although it is not necessary. The puppy will find the most comfortable place in your home anyway. Equip yourself with a transport box, preferably a plastic one with IATA certificate – size 4 or 5, nail clippers, comb and brush. You will also need two medium-sized stainless steel bowls with non-slip underlay.

And we have it!